South America. Manchester to Argentina, February 2020.

 Buenos Aires, Argentina. 

I had decided to retire from my full time occupation and my retirement date was the 1^st March 2020.

I had also managed to persuade my self employed husband to take 6 weeks off work so that we could visit parts of South and Central America.

I normally book the flights with the airline direct, but for the Japan trip I had got a good deal from a UK based travel agent  – a company called SkyClub based in central London, and I used this company this time.

The itinerary I came up with was; 

• Manchester to Buenos Aires, Argentina. 
• Cruise on Celebrity Eclipse from Buenos Aires to Chile and stay in Santiago.
• Quito and the Galapagos Islands
• Costa Rica

On the afternoon of 25^th February 2020 dutifully packed for a 6 week adventure in various climates, we left our local train station bound for Manchester Airport where we checked into the Air France desk. The flights were AF 1169, Manchester to Paris at 19.40, then AF 228 Paris to Buenos Aires, Argentina at 23.35. 

We were aware that a new form of SARS had started to move from China, and that Italy was experiencing an outbreak of this virus, on this date the UK had reported 13 cases and France 12. Also, part of our tour involved a cruise on the Celebrity Eclipse so we had also been watching the events unfolding on the Diamond Princess. The Diamond Princess Cruise ship has been anchored at the Yokohama port in Japan since February 3, 2020. A total of 691 cases of the new Corona virus disease 2019 later to be called COVID-19 had been confirmed as of February 23.

But as on the 25^th of February 2020 the WHO had not declared the situation a ‘Pandemic’, and world travel continued as normal.

At Manchester Airport we were in terminal three and the lounge used was called the 1903 Lounge, there was a selection of snacks and comfortable chairs to sit on and the time passed quickly.

The short flight to Paris was on an Air France A320, we then used the lounge in terminal 2E. This was a very large, impersonal lounge, and as our flight was departing at 23.35, the staff were getting ready to close for the evening and there was little on offer in the way of food or snacks. The passengers for flight AF 228 were the last ones left in the lounge when our boarding time was called – the cleaners were already vacuuming the carpets as we left.  

Flight AF 228 was a Boeing 777-200. I was very impressed with the aircraft and crew. The seats were modern lay flat seats, the food and drinks were good the crew attentive. Although the flight was over 13 hours long, I had a really good sleep and had to woken up as we were preparing to land in Argentina.

It was 09.32 on the 26^th Feb 2020 when we landed. Customs clearance was fast and efficient. The bags were waiting on the carousel for us and we made our way out to the busy arrivals hall.

I had pre booked a transfer to our chosen hotel, and very soon we were on our way. But there was an accident and the journey that should have taken 35 minutes took over two hours! As we were scheduled to arrive early in the morning and I didnt want to be waiting untill 15.00 to check in, I had booked the Hotel- The ARC Recoleta Boutique Hotel- from the 25^th Feb 2020. I did email the hotel to explain what I had done. But upon arriving at the hotel the staff were confused as to why we had not checked in the day before. But the good thing was we went straight up to our room. Unlike the many Europeans who were waiting in the lobby, unable to check in until 15.00.

The ARC Recoleta was great. Our room had a king size bed, a small kitchen area, balcony and good size bathroom. The hotel has a small pool on the roof, a Spa & gym in the basement, great breakfast and the most helpful staff. It is located in the residential part of Recoleta just down the road from the cemetery. I was really please with my choice and if I ever went to Buenos Aires again I would say at the same hotel.

But we had no time to waste; we found a bank to change money and attempted to get a local SIM card for the phone – that was not achieved until day 3!! 

For the first evening I had booked an Argentine dining experience at Fogon Asado in Palermo. It promised to be an 8 course tasting menu that explores new ways of serving Argentine classic cuts of meat.                      COCKTAIL

“The Bright Side” with Argentine Gin Craft and Torrontes

FIRST COURSE
It is unthinkable to start without a great Argentinian empanada.
Cooked over open embers with citrus chutney.

SECOND COURSE
Known as “ Matrimonio” in Spanish, which means” marriage “

Black pudding | Quince Chutney | Baked bread

Chorizo ​​| Fire-roasted pepper | Baked bread

THIRD COURSE
Caramelized provoleta cheese | Roasted Ratatouille To The Flame

FOURTH COURSE
Glazed pork belly ( Matambrito ) | Yellow chili sauce | Lime and Cilantro Salad

FIFTH COURSE
Our chef selects a treat depending on what he discovers in local markets.

SIXTH COURSE
Two cuts of Argentine beef prepared using different cooking techniques.

DESSERT
Pancakes with dulce de leche, but not as you know it.

COFFEE 

It was a 15 minute Taxi drive to the restaurant; it is located in a small street and looked closed when we arrived. But once through the large, heavy door, it was very much open. There were 8 of us, sitting around a large wooden bar, with a inside BBQ / grill in the middle. First we were served a wonderful Gin cocktail, then experienced many different cooking techniques on the grill.

The food, wine and company were all memorable, and its an experience I would highly recommend. It was so good that I don’t really remember the taxi journey home.

I had been very nervous about coming to Buenos Aires as there had been some very bad media report about how dangerous it was. My neighbour had not had a good experience in the city and this has dampened my excitement, but after my Fogon Asado Experience my spirits were lifted!